In ancient Rome a broad purple band was sewed on the garments of the senators to distinguish their rank. The knights used a narrow band of the same color. In later times those ornaments were used on Church vestments, and, as the material employed in making them was no longer purple stuff, but more frequently gold braid, they were known as "Orphreys", from the French words "or," gold, and "fraise," fringe. Besides serving as a border, the Orphreys on chasubles in this country form a cross on the back, and in front of the vestment fall in a straight line. But, anciently, there was a greater variety in the arrangement of them, as may be seen from the picture of the chasuble of Saint Thomas a Becket.
A long robe with sleeves and partly open at the side was introduced into Rome about the second century, and speedily became fashionable. As it was brought from Dalmatia, it was called a "Dalmatic." Originally, the use of the Dalmatic was peculiar to the deacons of Rome, but spread gradually therefrom to other parts of the Church. From the very earliest times, it was worn also by Bishops, and we find that it was employed, as well as the amice, alb, stole and cope, by kings and emperors at their coronation. The "Tunic" was originally of the same shape as the dalmatic, only a little shorter; at present they are identical in form. The Tunic is the proper vestment for sub-deacons. The orphreys on the dalmatic and tunic are arranged in parallel bands.
The Pallium was a square woolen over-garment used by the Greeks, and especially by the philosophers. Afterwards it was worn by Christians who devoted their lives to works of piety and to the study of divine things. In course of time the Pallium was used by the Bishops as a mark of their teaching authority. The Roman Pallium is the only pallium used now. Like the stole, it has been reduced to a narrow band, which is worn over the shoulders, with the ends hanging down the back and the breast. It is made of white wool, and has four black crosses marked upon it. Each year two lambs are brought to the Church of Saint Agnes at Rome. From their fleece the pallium is made by the nuns of a local community. The pallium is left all night on the tomb of Saint Peter, and is then sent to the Bishop for whom it is destined. It signifies the union which exists between the See of Saint Peter and the other great Sees of Christendom. Hence it is very seldom given to a simple Bishop, but it is always given to Archbishops, Patriarchs and the like who have rule over other Bishops. The pallium is worn only on the great feasts, and then over the chasuble.
The word "Scapular" comes from the Latin "scapulae," the shoulders. It was a cloak which covered the shoulders, and was formerly affected by the monks, who wore it over their other dress when at work. At present it forms part of the habit (No. 113) of many of the Orders. It consists of a long strip of cloth, with an opening for the head. It falls down over the cassock before and behind. An abbreviated form of the Scapular is worn by lay people. This scapular consists of two pieces of cloth worn on the breast and back after the manner of the monastic scapular and connected over the shoulders by strings.
The scapular is the uniform of a society, and the person who wears it performs certain religious duties enjoined by the society. There are many such societies, and therefore many scapulars, as, for example, the Brown Scapular of the Carmelites, the Red Scapular of the Vincentians, the Blue Scapular of the Theatines, the White Scapular of the Dominicans, and so on. Instead of the scapular, sometimes the girdle, or "Cord," which fastens the habit round the waist, is used. Its purpose, however, is the same, namely, to serve as a mark of membership in a certain society.
The "Sandal" was a form of shoe or slipper once in common use. The ordinary heavy foot-gear was in ancient times exchanged for lighter and often highly ornamented sandals when the ministers entered the church. At present this custom is observed only by Bishops when they celebrate Mass on great occasions. At such times they also use "stockings" and "gloves."
Among all the ancient nations the ring was looked upon as a sign of honor and power. Used as a seal, it was as potent as the king's signature; and he who held it was for the time all-powerful. Hence, at his consecration a Bishop receives a "Ring," which he wears on the third finger of his right hand, as a sign of his episcopal authority and as a mark of the spiritual union which exists between him and his Church. In the middle ages, after the Mohammedans had conquered Jerusalem, great military expeditions were organized in Europe to re cover the Holy Land. The men who enlisted in those armies wore a cross on their armor, and hence the expeditions were known as Crusades and the volunteers as Crusaders, from the Latin "Cruciata," marked with a cross. Instead of wearing an ordinary cross, some procured pieces of the very Cross on which our Lord suffered, and placed them in metal crosses richly wrought, and hung them around their necks. This custom is still observed by Bishops, who wear a "Pectoral Cross," which means a cross that is worn on the breast. Besides pieces of the True Cross, any relics were used, and now the cross itself has become an emblem of Episcopal authority. As the Bishop is the chief pastor, or shepherd, of his flock, he carries a staff like a shepherd s crook. This is known as the "Pastoral Staff" and some times as a "Crozier. " The head of the staff is curved, the shaft straight and the lower end pointed. In some places it was the custom to hang a strip of cloth from the crook, like a small banner. This cloth was wrapped around the shaft at the point where the Bishop's hand held the staff, in order to protect the delicate work from discoloration or injury from the natural moisture of the palm. This custom was the rule in Germany, as we may see from the picture of the German Bishop of the fifteenth century. The title Crozier is properly applied to the Pastoral Staff, but improperly to a processional cross which is borne before Archbishops.
- taken from The Mass, by Father Peter Christopher Yorke