Chapter VIII - Vatican City-State

A Builder-Pope - "A City of Souls" - Pius XI and Marconi - An Audience with the Pope

Pius XI will assuredly go down in history as one of the great Builder-Popes. For with the signing of the Lateran Accord there began a new phase of building in Vatican City which has proceeded energetically ever since. The cash settlement of the Italian state to the Holy See provided ample funds for the purpose. In keeping with the new needs of the times and with the added functions acquired by the restoration of temporal power, Pius XI has fitted Vatican City with every equipment that modern science has put at his disposition. The old appearance of the Vatican grounds has undergone great changes by the addition of new buildings. As one proceeds through the southern entrance at the end of the basilica, the first building to great the eye is the new Palace of Justice. Here are tried any cases of law-infringement within Vatican City. Facing the apse of Saint Peter’s is the Palace of the Governor which has a splendid approach. It houses all the administration offices and has fine apartments for famous visitors and an adjoining wing in which there is a private chapel for their use.

Built to receive official visitors to the Holy Father is the handsome railway station. Its main hall of honor is lined with precious marble and on right and left are smaller halls – one for the diplomatic corps and the other for the Pontifical court. The arms of Pius XI ornament the facade and a fountain splashes within a colonnade of pillars. Next to the station is the Papal garage which shelters the motor cars (about three hundred of them) belonging to the Holy See. These cars carry the plate SCV, standing for Stato defla Citta del Vaticano.

In an old tower of the wall of Leo IV the Vatican observatory is located. Gregory XIII built a Pontifical observatory in the sixteenth century. Here was carried on the labor of making the calendar reform with which the name of this Gregory is associated. During the nineteenth century it had been used for making important meteorological and astronomical observations. After 1870 and the fall of the temporal power, the scientific work ceased and the Quirinal, which had been the home of many of the prelates connected with the Holy See, was occupied by the House of Savoy. The old Gregorian Tower became the abode of the prelates. When Leo XIII celebrated his jubilee, he was presented with some scientific instruments of rare value and he conceived the idea of restoring the observatory to its original purpose. But the old Gregorian Tower was not sufficiently commodious to house the new astronomical instruments and so Leo appropriated the old Leonine Tower which had been constructed as a defense against the Saracens in 848. A famous astronomer, Father Denza, a Barnabite, took over the work under the patronage of Leo XIII, who, on the occasion of the dedication declared that “the Church and its pastors have never held aloof from true and solid science, either in divine or human matters; on the contrary, they embrace it, they favor it and contribute towards its progress with love, so far as it is within their power.” Now, under Father Stein, of the Society of Jesus, its work is in keeping with the work of the great observatories of the world.

Next we pass on to the Grotto of Lourdes. Here Pius XI, before his illness, came daily to pray when he went for a stroll into the gardens.

Just beyond the Grotto to Our Lady is a building of modest proportions which is the Vatican radio station. It is here that the late-lamented Marconi worked incessantly to improve his experiments with the apparatus he himself installed. Father Gianfranceschi, S.J. now directs the station. It is the most powerful in the world and has the finest equipment in existence. It has a set for radio vision and an ultra-short wave length the sole one of its kind. From this station on the great days of celebration, on feast days and on Sundays, this apparatus sends a service and a sermon to the sick. The choir of Saint Peter’s is heard from different wave lengths, and the ringing of the bells. From this station the voice of the Supreme Pontiff can be heard amidst the snows of the Arctic and in the remotest reaches of the Tropics, in London and Paris and Berlin, in New York and Chicago, in Honolulu and the Transvaal.

The new Vatican Museum is a rose stucco building. With the most modern method of reflected lighting from above the great masterpieces of Giotto, Da Vinci, Raphael and others are seen at the best possible advantage. Here hangs the great Transfiguration of Raphael that draped the artist’s dead body as it was carried through the streets of Rome before it found final resting place in the Pantheon. Studios for restoring works of art are located beneath the Museum where the very best and most scientific methods are employed.

Modern in every detail is the new post office. The stamps of Vatican City are much prized by collectors. The first printing brought a substantial sum into Vatican City revenue.

An Annona, or commissariat, has been established on the grounds of Vatican City where food and other articles can be bought by the citizens at a very reasonable price due to freedom from the state tax which prevails in Italy. There are schools for mosaic artisans and for tapestry weaving. A conservatory, containing seven hundred varieties of orchids, and several fountains, whose splashing waters are heard as one saunters through the gardens, complete the new grounds of Vatican City.

Citizenship in Vatican City is conditioned by service to the Papacy. All the inhabitants are under the jurisdiction of the Pontiff of Rome and are governed by canon law and the statute of Vatican City. They are citizens of Vatican City because they are in some degree, temporal or spiritual, attached to the service of the Pope. But not all servants and functionaries of the Pope are dwellers in Vatican City. The cardinals of the Curia live in Rome and yet are citizens of the State of Vatican City. The law on the right of citizenship and sojourn in Vatican City states that it is granted to “those who reside in a permanent manner in the City of the Vatican, for reasons of dignity, charge, office or employment, when this residence is prescribed by law, or by a regulation, or when it is authorized by the sovereign Pontiff, or in his name by the Cardinal Secretary of State or else authorized by the Governor.

Very definite limitations are imposed upon residents in Vatican City. No vendors of any sort are permitted to ply their trade. No public meetings may be held within its walls, no one may carry arms, and no printing press may be set up nor photographs taken. No printed matter or objects of art are permitted to be sold or even given away to the public.

Since the signing of the Lateran Accord the Pope of Rome is endowed with two kinds of sovereignty spiritual and temporal. The spiritual he exercises over all the Faithful in every part of the world-^the temporal he exercises within the boundaries of Vatican City. The Pontiff has within his person full legislative, executive and judicial power.

The Governor of Vatican City is a layman who is directly responsible to the Holy Father and is selected by him because of his high moral and spiritual qualities.

When Vatican City was constituted an independent state by the Lateran Accord, it was recognized by the government of Italy that the Holy See had “full ownership and exclusive and absolute power and sovereign jurisdiction over the Vatican, as it is at present composed with all its appurtenances and dowry.” A plan was appended to the Treaty indicating the limits of the territory of Vatican State, a territory comprising only forty-four hectares or 440,000 square metres (no acres). Of these, 55,000 square metres are covered by the Vatican palace alone. Its twenty courtyards cover another 25,000. On the remaining grounds are the numerous buildings, including the accommodations for its 898 inhabitants.

Although its territory is so small and its inhabitants are so few, its importance cannot be overestimated, for the wealth of its art treasures is beyond computing, its prestige in the Catholic world is supernatural in character, and its geographical and political advantages are enormous. Rome, the cradle of ancient civilization, in the midst of the Mediterranean Sea, is in an ideal climatic zone. Rome gave its name and spiritual heritage to the civilized world, and the ancient glamour clings to the Eternal City in spite of all the changes she is constantly undergoing. No city has suffered and survived such ravages. Always she has emerged triumphant over destruction and time. Today the Eternal City seems more real and secure than any capital in the world. In comparison New York appears, to the returning American who has sojourned in Rome over a period of time, like a fantastic creation in time, which might easily fall in ruins like a stack of cards when the Zeitgeist that spawned it wearies of the monstrosity. A nostalgia seizes the returning pilgrim as the steamship pulls into dock a spiritual nostalgia that never leaves the heart that has been under the spell of things eternal.

Vatican City contains all these eternal elements in epitome and in full flower. Though so old as to seem incredible, she yet appears eternally young! The grandeur that was Rome is here intact and flourishing. Here is a dynamo of power sending forth its potent currents to the uttermost limits of the globe. Here is a lighthouse shedding its radiance over a war-racked world. For the Papal State of today exists also as a means, an instrument, for the achievement of purposes that go far beyond the tiny limits of her periphery and the insignificant number of the population shut within her frontiers. Vatican City houses more than the eye can behold. She is more than a monument to human genius. Here the living flame of eternal verities is kept lighted and is passed on from generation to generation from pontificate to pontificate. Whatever we have been taught, however much is true of the sins of some of her popes, there remains a lustre and an immortal glory about the Roman pontificates that defy analysis and cold logic.

No pontiff has more truly merited the tide “Great” than Pius XI. He has builded not only with material things. He has made use of these agencies as instruments of spiritual power that will live on through the centuries. Pius is not great because he is brilliant in the modern sense of that much-abused word. He is great because he is wise because he is patient and far-seeing because he has hidden depths of spiritual reserve that are not allowed to germinate in the average man. He sees the world and he sees it whole, not through the distorted lenses of prejudice and passion, as so many of his contemporaries narrowly view it. He beholds it in the pure light of one who is above the battle, sub specie aeternitatis.

Yet it must not be thought that he despises any of the modern means that science has placed at the service of his age to render his labors more effective. He was quick to realize the great benefit that Marconi’s invention of wireless telegraphy would put at the disposition of the Holy See as a world influence. He has had two microwave wireless stations installed in Vatican territory – one in the Vatican itself and another in his summer palace at Castel Gandolfo, twelve miles away. Marconi carried out some of his short-wave experiments between these two stations.

Pius’ zeal for the promotion of science is demonstrated in his Pontifical Academy of Science of which he appointed Signor Marconi a member. This honor he conferred upon the Marchese after his first Papal broadcast from the Vatican to which many millions all over the world listened. On that occasion the writer listened in her home in Chicago and clearly heard Marconi, the great inventor of radio speak these significant words:

I speak in your most august presence, O Holy Father. The joy which this historic moment has given me is the greatest reward which I could have asked for my labors. Through my work, Your Holiness has deigned to make use of the electric waves to send across space words of Peace and Benediction to all the Faithful.

The Pope spoke in reply, thanking Marconi and his collaborators and asking God’s blessing upon the installation.

Marconi was a devout man and a most illustrious example of a truly religious scientist. His life was an eloquent and emphatic affirmation to the hackneyed query: “Can a man be a scientist and a Christian at the same time?” Science signified for the genius and benefactor of mankind one of the means provided man for discovering the laws of God and of explaining these wonders to the world. Believing with all his soul that the human brain is endowed by God with the ability to make great scientific discoveries, he has proven that his own extraordinary abilities are under the will and guidance of the Creator of all wonders, and he dedicated his life to that credo.

“The more a man bends the phenomena of the universe to his will and the more he discovers,” the humble genius says, “the more he will find to discover. Because of this he will realize more and more ‘the infinity of the infinite’.”

Here is a robust faith that was not diminished by the “multiplicity” of the modern world into which Pius’ contemporary and friend was born. It is little wonder that a scientist of so profound a mind and so reverent a spirit should be honored during his lifetime with the friendship of the ruling Pontiff of Rome of that Achille Ratti whose soul has always responded to the beauties and scientific wonders of the universe and whose pontificate has been made glorious by his personal patronage of science and particularly by his especial solicitude for the Pontifical Academy of Science.

In a letter to L’Illustrazione Vaticana published in Vatican City, Marconi said after the first Papal communication over the air:

The Radio Station of Vatican City, established by His Holiness, Pius XI, carried his voice today for the first time into the mysterious realms of space.

Catholicism, which before radio, has surmounted the two barriers of distance, reforming the Universal Society by men in the truth of the Evangel, finds today, in this material instrument, a new providential means by which the August Head of the Church of Rome makes his pastoral voice heard to all the Faithful of all the earth. Swiftly and subtly as a thought, the wave of the word presses in hot pursuit the wave of the spirit, which amplifies itself with the force and the ardor of truth.

The little territorial state of the Pontiff of Rome communicated today directly with the great centers of our tormented industrial civilization, as also with the more distant and humble provinces of Christendom, where the legions of evangelical truth fight the daily and bitter struggle of the Faith.

The voice of radio which serves to invoke succor to the shipwrecked man, and which accelerates the rhythm of industrial labor for men of social affairs, is today utilized by the Navigator who has overcome the storms of history, who carries the succors of Truth and who attends to the interests of all citizens of the spirit.

The “Roman-ness” of the Church, which is evangelical catholic, reaffirms itself once more anew in the transmission of the word of the Father and the Master of Divine Truth, and who is Sovereign of that universal world of the spirit.

Radio, which amongst the conquests of science, appears to touch more intimately the realm of Immateriality, is today exalted by this service which obeys those purer and more universal interests of Catholic spirituality.

This, then, is another example of the adaptability of the Church to the times. By means of the invention and perfection of radio, the Supreme Head of Catholicism can communicate directly and instantly to his flock. What a tremendous power for peace! What a potential agency for guidance in critical days ahead! That it will be dedicated to the bringing about of “the Peace of Christ in the Kingdom of Christ,” no one who has followed the labors of the years of the Pontiff of Rome, Pius XI, can for a moment doubt.


Papal audiences are of several kinds. There are the strictly private audiences such as those granted to the ecclesiastics, to the bishops and archbishops who, according to the requirements of canon law, are bidden to come to Rome to make their ad limina visits, and report concerning the condition of their dioceses. These visits are continuous, and scarcely a day passes when at least one such audience with the Supreme Pontiff is not on the agenda. It is said that Pius’ knowledge of the vast, far-flung field of Catholic endeavor is so up-to-date that he constantly amazes his visitor from some remote region of the Catholic world with his extensive information and his grasp of the reality of local problems. There is also a very important daily audience with Cardinal Pacelli, the Papal Secretary of State. The Cardinal Secretary arrives promptly at nine o’clock bringing with him condensed reports of news from the nuncios and inter-nuncios, from the apostolic legates who represent the Holy See in those countries that are in formal relation with the Vatican. Cardinal Pacelli informs the Pope of the very latest happenings in world affairs which he has carefully condensed from current newspapers of the world. Pope Pius XI’s interest in press reactions to Vatican policy is never known to lag. After a survey and discussion with the Papal Secretary of State, Pius instructs Cardinal Pacelli what his decisions are in regard to the Holy See’s policies, which are then sent to the Papal representatives all over the world. These daily audiences with the Cardinal Secretary are of supreme importance to the Vatican and to the world, for it is in these conferences that the policies of the Catholic Church are shaped.

Then there are the lay visitors who come singly or in groups from both the Catholic and non-Catholic world, persons who for one reason or another desire an audience with His Holiness. Distinguished rulers or diplomats are granted private audience, as are also persons of very humble origin who have some special information that will illumine the Papal outlook – an exile from Spain or Mexico, a priest who is suffering persecution in Nazi Germany and whose parish has been singled out for its refusal to submit to the dictum of the new state and for continuing to give allegiance as good Catholics to the authority of Rome. Perhaps a laywoman who has created some new form of Catholic labor and craves Papal approval may arrange to be granted an audience to have the official seal put upon her foundation.

Hundreds of thousands of children are received yearly by the Holy Father as are also newly-married couples. It would be interesting, if figures were available, to know the number of non-Catholics who come each year to Rome, having made arrangements before leaving their own lands through some Catholic cleric in the hometown, to be received by the Supreme Pontiff of Catholicism.

It was on one of those incredible days in September when Rome is glorious with that sumptuous autumnal loveliness that seems to become her so well, that the good Maria, our devoted maid at the pensione off the Via Sistina, knocked at the author’s door and with glowing eyes and a beaming smile announced the Papal messenger whom she ushered in with a low bow. “From His Holiness, Signora,” she whispered. The young messenger drew from under his long black cape the coveted document which he held in his gloved hand as he inquired the Signora’s name. Satisfied as to her identity, he handed the writer the letter, stamped with the Papal seal, that was to grant her an audience with Pius XI. It had been a wait of about two weeks since she had presented to the Secretary of the Vatican her credentials which had been carefully guarded from loss together with her passport and American Express check-book.

On the appointed day the writer presented her document and was received with a group which seemed to be composed mostly of Italians, although there were a few who had obviously travelled from even farther than America for the privilege of an audience with His Holiness. Our Parsee friends, the Patels from Bombay, who were stopping at the same pensione, were in the audience hall; he in his formal full-dress, and she with her flaming sari concealed by the black robe all of us women wore, with black lace mantillas over our hair. On our left was an old Italian woman with her two sturdy grandsons whose brown eyes were big with awe and wonder as we all stood around the hall of the consistory, expectantly awaiting His Holiness’ arrival. Standing opposite the great open door that revealed the staircase down which Pius was to descend, we let our eyes wander over the assembled group of about twenty-five persons who appeared to represent a cross-section of society. Several of the men looked distinguished as if they belonged to the professional class. One or two of the women’s faces bore the impress of culture and refinement. For the most part, however, they were of humbler origin, people whose countenances showed they had weathered the hard storms of life.

A slight stir told us of the arrival of the major domo. He was magnificent in his traditional knee breeches and gold braid, carrying his staff which tapped lightly upon the marble floor. Then an attendant in purple and lace came toward us to inspect each one. For no breach in the rules as to dress or correct personal appearance was allowed to intrude upon the conformity which the Holy Father insists upon before he approaches each pilgrim singly to impart the individual blessing. Satisfied that all had adhered to the printed rules which had been received with the Papal letter, the major domo took up his position beside the great door to await His Holiness.

Soon we saw the figure clad in a cream-colored soutane and wearing a skull cap of the same color, descend the marble stairs and advance with the long easy stride acquired in his mountain-climbing days. Upon his breast, above the broad silk sash, rested a beautiful gold cross hung from a heavy chain. The long soutane, buttoned from neck to hem, may have added to the impression of height which we knew belied the five feet, five inches; or it may have been due to the dignified carriage; at any rate, as we knelt at the signal of the major domo’s tap on the floor with his staff, Pius slowly passed before the kneeling pilgrims with the ease and keen interest of a born lover of men and with the benevolent graciousness of the Father of Souls.

Approaching nearer to where we knelt, we heard the low words of blessing spoken in mellow musical Latin, as he made the sign of the cross over each bowed head, after the symbolic Fisherman’s Ring on the extended hand had been reverently kissed by each kneeling pilgrim. When Pius came to the old Italian woman, he paused to inquire whence she came and to speak a special word to each lad as he placed his hand affectionately upon first one, then the other little bent head. Tears streamed down the bronzed wrinkled cheeks as the old woman responded. It was her first visit to Rome. She had brought her grandsons to be blessed by the Holy Father. It was the supreme moment of her life, the apogee of the long years! In an ecstasy of emotion the tears fell unheeded down the furrowed cheeks. After we had received the Papal blessing and had pressed our lips upon the Fisherman’s Ring, the Holy Father paused to inquire of his major domo who walked beside him if the Patels came from India, for it is said that Pius XI can place almost every pilgrim. “From Bombay, Your Holiness,” answered the major domo in Italian. “From Bombay?” repeated the Pope as he smiled upon the Sun Worshippers, whose ancestors had come from Persia to India centuries ago.

That night at the pensione, Dr. Patel, graduate of Oxford and judge of a court in Bombay, sat with his wife in the salotta, reviewing the day’s happening with the assembled guests. “This day’s experience alone is worth the journey from Bombay to Rome,” he concluded enthusiastically. “The Pope is a holy man,” murmured his wife, whose cheeks reflected the glow of her flaming sari.